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Understand chemical emulsion and Skin Physiology

While the world market for skin care and color cosmetics works million and the number of new products reaching the market continues to grow exponentially, cosmetic chemists are always looking for exotic ingredients interesting to improve the appearance of your skin and health. There is a wide variety of compounds is required to provide these products. Every year, hundreds of new ingredients are added to the list of those who have been used for centuries. Some materials used today dates back to 11,000 BC in animal drawings of Altamira caves.

The appearance of the formulation of skin care dates back to around 3000 BC in ancient Egypt. Most of the mixtures were prepared from natural materials. Cleopatra have bathed in asses 'milk' to keep your skin soft and supple. A natural material used by the ancients was red ocher or iron oxide. Tumors form when red rusted iron ore or rusted. Red iron oxide has been found in the tombs of the ceremony in shades of red lips and preparations. Has also been used to develop the cave paintings of animals, as seen in Altima, and is still used as a makeup today. painted eyes have also been found in ancient tombs. These paintings consisted mainly of a mineral called copper-based green malachite was mined in nearby quarries. Animal fat was combined with aromatics such as frankincense and myrrh to produce early skin ointments. Creams and lotions are more sophisticated set by trial and error and handed down from generation to generation.

Most creams and lotions are emulsions. An emulsion can be defined simply as two immiscible fluids in a liquid is dispersed in tiny droplets in the another. homogenized milk is a typical example of an oil in water (O / W) emulsion. milk fat (fat) in water droplets dispersed in the process of homogenization. The why fat rises to the surface immediately because of the presence of emulsifiers, in this case, a protein in milk called casein sodium, and phospholipids number. In the case of water in oil (W / O) emulsions, water is dispersed as droplets and suspended in the oil phase. Nondispersed suspension or external liquid phase also is called the continuous phase. Mayonnaise, vinegar and water droplets dispersed in a continuous phase of soybean oil, is an example of a water in oil. egg lecithin stabilized emulsion mayonnaise.

More emulsifiers can be considered surfactant. These materials are able to reduce the surface tension of water. What is a surface is related to their emulsifying activity of HLB, or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance. HLB is determined by the size of the hydrophilic (water-loving or polar) is part of a molecule, in relation to the size of the lipophilic (oilloving or polar) part. The HLB system was developed to classify the relative polarity materials. Most polar, soluble in water, the materials are in the top twenty-point scale with nonpolar materials, oil soluble, more close to zero. The sodium caseinate HLB was assigned a value of about fourteen, due to its high water solubility. Lecithin, being poorly soluble in water, has a value HLB of about six years. The two are polar groups. The polar group in the milk protein is sodium. lecithin surfactant component is a molecule called phosphotidylcholine or PC. The polar part soluble in water or on the PC is the phosphate functional group. emulsifiers groups "oriented polar polar aqueous phase. lipophilic nonpolar groups oriented phase oil to form micelles. Bonds offer spherical emulsion stability of structures by hydrogen and weak electrostatic forces.

emulsifiers skin care can be divided into two groups according to the ionic charge. The materials can be separated into care ionic species are considered non-ionic Nameless. ionic emulsifiers can be classified by type of cargo. Negatively charged anions solvated sodium stearate or soap. When fatty acids react with a form of alkaline soap. The soap formation process is called saponification. The group negatively charged stearic acid is the main unit soap emulsion, anionic to classification. emulsifiers with positive charge are called cations. dissociates emulsifier unit of positive charge Quarternium24 ammonium group. amphoteric compounds that express both positive and negative charges.

nonionic emulsifiers are often used in skin care for their safety Emulsion and low reactivity. Usually classified according to their chemical similarity. Glycerin, commonly added to cosmetic emulsions for their properties Moisturizing is the backbone of a class called ester emulsifiers. glycerine or glycerine monostearate GMS is called a monoester due to ester bond exclusively. The diester is prepared by esterification of two molecules per molecule of stearic acid glycerine. Glyceryl mono-and diesters are very effective emulsifiers because they contain both polar hydroxyl (OH) and polar fatty acids. If three hydroxyl groups of glycerol are reacted, have emulsifying the resulting triester little. Stearic acid C18 fatty acids. The fatty acids in fats and oils are classified according to their chain length carbon. Since stearic acid is a major fats and oils used in beauty treatments most important, on the basis of stearate emulsifiers are particularly useful. Fatty acids are key components of many cosmetic emulsifiers for his great ability to mix in a variety of synthetic natural oils.

esters of polyethylene glycol esters of ethylene glycol is called PEG. PEG ester solubility is determined by the number of PEG molecules per molecule of acid reacts. PEG 6 oleate, for example, has six PEG molecules reacted to the oleic acid molecule. As the number of PEG molecules per molecule polar acid increases the water solubility and HLB increases, PEG-8 oleate is more soluble as PEG 6 oleate. cosmetic chemist often combines the use of glycerol ester PEG esters with HLB values of high and low to determine polarity necessary to emulsify different fats and oils. The many types of emulsifiers are too numerous to list them, but McCutcheon emulsifiers and detergents is an excellent source for a complete list.

Most emollients used in personal care products beauty are fats and oils, also called lipids. Animal fat or tallow consists mainly of palmitic and stearic acids with chain lengths carbon 18 and 16, respectively. Many major cosmetic companies are moving away from animal materials such as plant materials renewable tallow. The coconut oil and palm kernel oil is often used. Some key features necessary for the effective dissemination of good emollient properties, low toxicity / skin irritation and oxidative stability. Oleic acid, olive oil has very low resistance to oxidation due to the presence of the double bond. Fats saturated oils, whereas no double bonds. unsaturated oils like olive oil have double bonds that can react with oxygen, especially when heated. The oxidation process can occur outside of the colors and smells of lipids leads to fan and unusable.

emollients such as petroleum jelly, petroleum based and hydrocarbons are found in many formulations, as they contain no double bonds or reactive functional groups. Cyclomethicone silicone oils, dimethicone are often added to increase the slip and emollient. The oils contain high levels of essential fatty acids, essential fatty acids, are highly valued for its ability to reconstitute lipids (oils) that occur naturally in skin layers. Linoleic acid is an example of education for all. long chain alcohols, also called alcohol acids are used as emollients and stabilizers of emulsions. The polar hydroxyl groups to guide the water phase with fatty acid chains oriented in the oil phase. Esters fatty alcohols and fatty acids for their excellent emollient poor reactivity and good stability.

Lanolin, derived from sheep wool, often called wool fat. Lanolin has been used for centuries due to its unique composition of complex sterols, fatty alcohols and fatty acids. Cholesterol, a molecule called sterols cyclical, is a major component. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols fat to absorb and retain water. The skin is composed primarily of water, oils and emollients are used for animal feed and protect.

The major distinction between moisturizers and emollients is their solubility in water. Healthy Skin requires moisture. Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are hygroscopic in nature, but retain the water. An important tool for evaluate the effectiveness of moisturizers is the scope of the task. Measurement of transepidermal water loss or TEWL. After the moisturizer applied to the skin, the humidity level is recorded. After several minutes, the humidity level is low because the natural tendency of skin to deliver moisture over time. The ingredients that can maintain a high level of moisture in the upper layers of the skin for several hours can reduce the rate at which water is lost. Glycerin is an ingredient used very profitably to help reduce ICP. The sorbitol, sucrose, glucose and other sugars are also commonly used to moisturize the skin. Aloe, which contains a mixture of polysaccharides, carbohydrates and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer. As the skin becomes dry in winter may be necessary to incorporate the best materials that the skin hydration.

The waxes are mainly composed of long chain esters that are solid at room temperature. Some waxes commonly used in cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene and paraffin. The melting points of waxes vary considerably depending on composition and chain length. Commonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes as agents of the structure, giving the stick is rigid enough to stand up and barrier properties. With the combination of waxes with different properties as brightness, flexibility and fragility, optimal cosmetic results can be achieved. They are often combined with compatible oils and waxes to achieve the proper desired. Support is generally determined by measuring the turbidity and the degree of separation of two mixed materials above their melting point. The waxes are particularly useful in creams and emulsions for thickening mascara and sealing properties.

By adding enough wax in a thin lotion, cream thick can be formed. Many thickeners are polymers. powdered cellulose, a polymer fine repeating units of D-glucose, swells in hot water creating a gel network. Carbopol, a polyacrylic acid, it swells when neutralized. Benton clays swell when its structure, which resembles a stack of cards, opens with mechanical cutting. Carrageenan pectin and locust bean gum, cosmetics examples of thickeners are also used in some of our favorite foods, like salads frozen sauces and pie fillings. Working materials physiological skin or skin helps protect against insults also call. The term "cosmeceutical" invented by the famous dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, refers to a product that sits between a cosmetic and a drug. Despite a cosmetic, by definition, legal, may be used to beautify and protect the surface of the skin, many cosmetic products can be shown to penetrate the dermal layers of skin to require a physiological change.

Fruit acids are an example of an asset. Also known as alpha hydroxy acids or AHA, have the ability to penetrate the skin, where you can increase the production of collagen, elastin, intracellular substances and improve the appearance of the skin. Thousands of cosmetic active ingredients are used to set the skin in a variety ways. They are used to clarify, strengthen and firm the skin. They can be used to remove sweat as in the case of aluminum chlorohydrate. Salicylic acid and peroxide benzoyl important ingredients in their fight against acne. Some active ingredients are added to the treatment of skin to protect skin against the environment. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of skin protection.

Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect skin from ultraviolet radiation. Wavelengths between 290 nm and 400 nm are particularly harmful to the skin. Sunscreens capacity to absorb or reflect these harmful wavelengths are valued for their SPF or sun protection factor solar. For example, a protected person SPF-15 is able to stay in Sun fifteen more if not protected. octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, and some important solar theme avobenzone. They can be classified as UVA and UVB sun depending on the wavelength they absorb. Benzophenone 4, water-soluble UV filters are commonly used to protect color cosmetics.

The pigments and dyes used to color the products. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a pigment blank extracts. In combination with natural iron oxides and synthetic mined range in color from red, yellow, black, brown, depending on the degree oxidation and hydration, a large color may occur that will suit almost all skin tones. Face powders are produced by the mixture of inorganic oxides expenses. Fillers are inert materials generally cheap as kaolin, talc, silica, mica and used to extend and deepen the color. by pressure or shadows dry eyes and blushes are prepared by mixing additional binding ingredients such as oils and zinc stearate and press the mixture into molds.

The shade and pencil lip often contain pearlescent pigments commonly called pearls. Pearls sparkle and reflect light to produce a multitude colors. They are prepared by precipitation of a thin layer of color on thin mica platelets. By varying the thickness of the color changes introduced the angle of the refracted light of the compound, creating different colors. organic pigments used in lipsticks and eye shadow color. When organic materials are precipitated on a substrate of the lake are called pigments. The term Lake Laking concerns or precipitate on an organic salt of metal such as aluminum, calcium or barium. They are called D & C (Drug and Cosmetic) and colors FD & C (food, medicine and cosmetics). The dyes are useful in providing shades of lotions, oils and shampoos.

Most require cosmetics adding a preservative to prevent microbial contamination and rancidity. Parabens and parabenzoic acid ester are by far the most used because its efficiency against gram-positive bacteria. Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against the strains of gram-negative bacteria. cosmetic chemist generally use a mixture of preservatives to protect against different strains of bacteria and yeasts and molds. Antioxidants including tocopherols (vitamin E) and BHT were also added to prevent oxidation of the ingredients sensitive and protects the skin against free radicals.

About the Author

Dr. Badruddin Khan teaches Chemistry in the University of Kashmir, Srinagar, India.